Meinklang - 2020
Natural red made from a blend of biodynamic Zweigelt and St. Laurent grapes. The nose is earthy and herbal with plenty of acidity, this is a fantastic wine to have with food.
The Roter Mulatschak is a red, very lightly sparkling wine (the fizz doesn’t hang around too long, leaving a sense of electric current rather than bubbles) made from 50% Zweigelt and 50% St Laurent from Neusiedlersee, bottled under crown cap. The grapes were picked early, but ripe, at the beginning of September and were co-fermented for four days on skin and stems. The wine was then whole-bunch pressed and spent another four months on fine lees. Alcohol is less than 11.5%, total acidity is 5.9 g/l, and residual sugar is 1 g/l. It’s unfiltered.
I described it as cherry and bramble-berry juice with a sorrel-leaf tang with green-coffee-bean and box-hedge streaks through punky, Andy-Warhol-bold-sassed purple fruit. I’d stuck it in the fridge for half an hour before tasting it for the first time, and while still cold it tasted of street art (red, purple, black splashed across bricks, sidewalks, rooftops). ‘Krumping!’ I wrote, unable to think of a single other word to describe the phenomenal, untrammelled, mesmerising energy of this little wine. As it warmed up in the glass and bottle, it tasted like ragtime jazz, like the sweet melody of maraschino cherry, playing louder and more insistently, building charm into the finish. ‘I could’, I scrawled in my notebook, ‘drink this every day of my life!’
JancisRobinson.com – tasted by Tamlyn Currin Feb 2021